Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

Good question. Not sure I know, but the last best theory I read was carburated engine = full tank, EFI (like ours) = empty. Idea being that modern engines prefer octane and are more water tolerant. Either way I would make sure the last bit of gas is non-ethanol 93oct w/stabile for marine. An empty plastic gas tank(like ours) is less prone to condensation moisture than a metal tank would be.

My new strategy is to not let the gas get stale...time to go shopping for a new drysuit.

Any of you guys out there shrink wrapping your boats up for winter? And are you guys blowing out your ballast system so it doesn't freeze?

Ok, so I'm winterizing my boat today. From what I understand I have to do the following...
I have a 2012 A20 fresh water use only with converters
1) run fresh water through system for 15 min to clean system
2) drain water from manifold and V-drive 2 bolts on each for a total of 4
3) pull plugs and spray fogging oil in cylinders
4) make sure ballasts are empty
5) spray fogging oil on steering and linkage
6) pull the battery and out it on a tender/ slow charger

Also the place I'm storing my boat want gas drained. It's pretty much empty, but there is a bit left? How do I drain the fuel? Or is pretty empty enough?

Don't forget to change all the fluids and run it for a few seconds to get clean oil on the bearing surfaces, and pull the two drain plugs on the water jackets just above the oil pan mounting surface to empty out the block, and the j hose on the water pump and the hose on the trans cooler

Ok Walter...
Thanks for the great write up. I'm in VA and we can get some good freezing snaps and snow so I added antifreeze. Since nobody has adjusted your writeup for the 2012 model with cats I will ad a few things.

There is a sensor on the "water jacket" bolt on the manifold that will need to be removed pictured...

The "Jacket" bolt is HUGE! You will need a 1" socket for it! That was 2 trips to the hardware store for me.

I flushed the boat with fresh water and a homemade "Fake A Lake" for about 12-15 min, then made some lunch really quick. I then loosened and removed all the bolts and hoses as described in Walters writeup. I then reconnected everything with a bit of anti seize on the "Jacket" bolts. I then gravity fed 5 gallons of marine/ antifreeze into the boat circulating it through the system through the "Fake A Lake" plunger. Didn't take long at all.

Since I have converters, then manual says not to use the fogging oil in the through the intake and cats while the motor is running. I Pulled the plugs one by one, and shot 3 sprays of fogging oil into the cylinder X 8.

I'm only about 20 hours on my oil, so I will put fresh oil in it next spring. I pulled the interior mats, and all my gear. I will pull all the seat cushions this week and clean and protect them before it goes into dry storage for the season.

The whole process took just about 2-3 hours. Shout out to Gibster and my buddy Blair for the phone support, and a big shout to Walter for the writeup!

I'm thinking about ordering a set of swim platform brackets this winter and making a custom and much smaller teak swim platform to help with the surf wave. I plan on adding an 1100 rear and 750 front bag next season.

Def write up your platform making process. I'm am considering this as well, but a little gun shy about pulling the trigger just yet.

Ya that's the knock sensor, be careful reinstalling it, they are very sensitive sensors and require very low torque, just enough to keep the nut from loosening, probably around 10-15 inch pounds

Hmm, I used the super small socket wrench for that and snugged it up.

That's probably good

Does anyone know the torque specs for the drain plugs and spark plugs?

-aha-