Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

Tanks first

What is the oem tubing size ? 3/4"

Almost 3/4" ID. I had to use some serious heat to get it to fit a 3/4 fittings. The 3/4 hose I bought slid right on.

Hey John I can't find the old post of the ball valve install that this is referencing. I may try it or something similar can you put a link in this?

I don't know if the manual ball valves were ever posted in the DIY, or at all, I can't remember. Ed told me how to do it.

ed could probably be the best guy to ask for a how-to-do, but once you have your lines routed to overflow into bottom of the fat sack, then cut the drain line somewhere convenient and add a ball valve.

I will try to see if there was a post with ELC's install...

Question for you (or anyone here for that matter). I discovered this problem yesterday when I installed my bags. I had thought water was going out of the vent. Sounds like that isn't the case. So the question is, when you fix this problem, do you chase it to the bags' vents? Do I need a valve on the vents, too?

If pertinent, I fill tanks then bags.

No valve on the vents, only the drain hose. just find a good place along the drain hose (the hose that goes from the rear of the hard tank towards the front of the locker, behind the access panel and out the side of the boat) and cut and add a ball valve. I had my manual ball valves against the rear seat back right where the anti-siphon valves were mounted. Ed moved his drain hose to the other side of the tank, i think, and runs it up against the side of the boat instead of along side the motor. Not sure where he ended up mounting the valves, but probably really close to where the hoses exit the side of the boat for easy access.

Short term plan is to just get some PVC ones from Home Depot and mount them right up by the drain, itself. Will likely have too much gear blocking the access panel for the drain pumps (already found them, as I had one that had something keeping it from working). Short term being this weekend. Long term will do what you did, only I don't think I'll need to pull off of the switch. The valves are 19Watt, which is about 1.5 amps. Pumps draw 4.6 amps. Don't know for certain what size the circuit breaker is, but probably 10 amps. If it isn't big enough, I'll have to run a relay, which would suck, but gotta do what you gotta do.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Definitely ask ELC what valves he is using. I bought 2 pvc ball valves (home depot) and they did not work very well. I had a hard time finding pvc threaded barbs that would allow the 3/4" hose to fit. I think I had to get brass barbs in order to get a good fit and then had some problems with the pvc valve. It was leaking a little bit and making a loud whining noise. I ended up swapping the pvc's with brass valves that worked perfectly. Just make sure you take some hose with you to the hardware store and don't settle for "close enough" like I did.

As for the placement of the valves, even though the manuals are temporary, I would consider putting them in the same place you plan on putting the electric ones so that the install will be a quick swap out. Unless you plan on putting the valves right up against the drain pump (which would make sense considering you are going to tap into the drain pump for your power).

When you do the final electric pumps, please take pictures and do a step by step, I think this is a better way to go then my way of having to run additional wires and pull the switches.

Hoping the valves will fit under the access panel. It would be great if they would screw into the tank, then the pumps into the valves, but not holding my breath.

I really just want a temporary setup for tomorrow evening when we go out, and what I've got is I think my best bet to get that. If it leaks a little, it leaks a little, but since it will be above the water line of the bags, it shouldn't leak very much at all. Of course, I'm still pretty surprised the water can make it above the water level (in the bags), now. I assume the resistance of the bags to fill is what is doing it.