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 Post subject: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:29 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:18 pm
Posts: 79
Hey everyone.
Im new to the forum here. I just took out my new to me 2011 Vandall last weekend for the first time. Absolutly loved the wake and boat, it exceeded my expectations. It has a Raptor in it and used way less gas than I expected which was a surprise.

One thing I did experience (as it seems like everyone does) is slow draiing from the rear plug and play. I thought about it for a while and wondered if anyone has just removed the hard tanks altogether and ran just the 1100 fly highs. It seems that the bags only fill to about 900 lbs anyway, so it would make sense to just remove the tanks and let the bags fill to capacity. Then you wouldn’t have the draining issues either. Has anyone attempted this or even know if its a possibility? Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2011 1:58 pm
Posts: 659
Location: Smith Mt Lake, VA
I was curious about this too. Maybe relocating the locker "Floor" above the bag to create more storage. At that point, might as well go with bigger tanks...


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:12 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:47 pm
Posts: 634
I like both those ideas. throw the 1100 in there, replace all ballast hose with 1" (still with 3/4" fittings, this will help reduce friction loss, increasing volume, reducing fill and empty times). Making a "floor" just above where the top of a full bag would be has been banging around my mind as a project too, its a great idea.

Walter... get on this and then build it for me :) just kidding, but seriously, I want to do it.

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John
2011 A22


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 Post subject: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:51 pm
Posts: 276
That's an awesome idea. I second Johnny's idea too. Let us know when u got this one knocked out Walter. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:14 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:21 pm
Posts: 336
Location: Vancouver
Welcome to the Axis Wakeboard boats forums.

Here's another option for slow draining rear ballast - viewtopic.php?f=14&t=552&p=3338&hilit=slow+drain#p3338.

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2009 - A22


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:12 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:15 pm
Posts: 165
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
I have been thinking of this for a while

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Gibby
2011 A22 Vandall


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:40 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:47 pm
Posts: 634
Gibs, the metal frame/bracing that holds each engine divider would give you 2 points to attach to on the engine side, but I do not know how to brace the "floor" on the out fiberglass/hull side. I will need to climb in there and check it out.

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John
2011 A22


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:26 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:22 pm
Posts: 1321
Location: BoomTown!
I like imondi's idea, sounds faster and cheaper than trying to reengineer the rear storage compartment. That and I couldn't do it anyway, if I had 1100's in mine it wouldn't even think about getting up on plane with the air quality where I ride.....


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:49 am 
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Team Axis

Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:18 pm
Posts: 79
Ok, So I dug into the boat last night to try and remove the tanks. I could get the rear floors out but it looks like in order to get the tanks out you would have to cut them (im not ready to make that commitment). Otherewise there was no way that I could see to get them out. Its a bummer, because there is so much space back there without the tanks. The 1100 would definatly fill all the way and you would then have much deeper storage under the rear corner seats. I thought about relocating the batteries back there if removing the tanks was possible.

For now It looks like im gonna have to just add 2 more pumps to the rear to empty the bags like suggested above. Let me know if anyone else has any ideas to get the tanks out.


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 Post subject: Re: Rear Ballast - Removing hard tanks and running 1100 only
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:04 am
Posts: 19
I was doing the same thing today.
1. it was a mess only getting the floor out.
It was jam in front under the side seat and in the middle under the back seat.
2. then I realize the hard tank are like glued and quite long.
So I would need to cut them.

I don t have the plug and play so I said maybe it would be the way to fill th back sac.

Me too I will reconsider unless someone here try it and said it a easy task.


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