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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:55 pm 
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Boater

Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 1:38 pm
Posts: 45
80AMT23 wrote:
Yeah the HU is designed to stay on when your battery is on even though the key is set to off. I haven't had the issue of the pop through the amps as the power is cutoff, but then again. I don't have any extra amps. I am installing them this weekend. We shall see.

On a related noted, does anyone hate that you can't see this HU in the sun unless you squat down in front of it. Anyone have any ideas for an angled bracket to install behind it to point it upward? I really really need that.


I second the answer for seeing the HU. Gotta be able remount it angled up?


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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:50 am 
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Team Axis

Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:06 pm
Posts: 56
I can't see it either without bending over. I even bought non polarized sunglasses hoping that would help. If you find a solution let me know.

80AMT23 wrote:
Yeah the HU is designed to stay on when your battery is on even though the key is set to off. I haven't had the issue of the pop through the amps as the power is cutoff, but then again. I don't have any extra amps. I am installing them this weekend. We shall see.

On a related noted, does anyone hate that you can't see this HU in the sun unless you squat down in front of it. Anyone have any ideas for an angled bracket to install behind it to point it upward? I really really need that.


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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:54 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:19 pm
Posts: 263
anybody do the firmware upgrade yet?


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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:32 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:28 pm
Posts: 122
steveA20 wrote:
Just did the firmware update, not exactly sure what it fixed.
Axis already ditched that media center and will be using infinity in the 2017 boats. Same location.


I didn't know there was a firmware update. How did you do it?

Do you know which Infinity stereo Axis is using and if it will fit in the same square space as the Kicker?


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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 9:24 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:10 pm
Posts: 480
Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona
gtoddh wrote:
steveA20 wrote:
Just did the firmware update, not exactly sure what it fixed.
Axis already ditched that media center and will be using infinity in the 2017 boats. Same location.


I didn't know there was a firmware update. How did you do it?

Do you know which Infinity stereo Axis is using and if it will fit in the same square space as the Kicker?

Down loaded the firmware update on my computer and put it on a thumbdrive, not really sure what it did yet. It took about 5 minutes to upload to the head unit.

_________________
2003 Sanger V210....SOLD
2005 MC X2....SOLD
2006 MC XSTAR....SOLD
2016 AXIS A20....SOLD
2018 AXIS T22....CURRENT


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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 12:55 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 12:34 pm
Posts: 191
Ok, so I'm out at the boat trying to install amps (JL) and I see the blue wire for the remote turn on cable coming out of the HU and going into a molex connector. There's nothing on the other side of the connector.

What are people doing to connect the remote wire on the amps? Adding molex pin and plugging it into the connector (which I don't have right now) or pulling the wiring and splicing it onto the remote wire?

Also, it looks like the in-boat speakers are connected via molex connectors too. Could I just pull those pins off of splice in additional wire to reach my amps? I'm

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2016 Axis T23 w/410 ACME 2249 prop (WakeMakers 825# rear kit, WakeMakers ExactFit bow bag)


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 Post subject: Re: kicker head unit
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 1:30 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:19 pm
Posts: 263
If you want to leave everything "original", you could

1. Buy male and female molex pigtails and make your own plug and play harness between the current output and input molexes.

2. get some posi-taps (https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lock-Connec ... s=posi-tap) and tap the wires from the existing plugs. Posi-taps actually work and you can remove them later. Don't use scotch-locks. They are garbage.

3. get a terminal pin tool (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-Term ... moval+tool) and pop the pins out of the molex plug, then see if you can rig up a terminal that will fit the wire/molex terminal and heat shrink it. Then to revert back to factory, you'd just cut off the heatshrink, unplug the terminal, and plug back into the molex plug.


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