should have read "as for BOW weight", not "as for now weight"
3 cautions. First, when cutting the fiberglass in the bow behind the little triangle pad, that pops off real easily and use a flat plastic object so not to scratch gel coat or vinyl (i used my sons toy flathead screwdriver
, make sure you do not cut out any area that will not be hidden by the triangle pad. use masking tape to trace the triangle pad before you pop it off, that will give you an idea of where to keep your cuts.
Second. with 400lbs concentrated all the way to the tip of the bow, their will be noticable pitch forward when all water ballast is empty. (unless you have lead in the rear lockers as well), and when loading the boat, keep a few hundred pounds in the rear ballast (hard tanks full should be fine), otherwise it is difficult to load the boat on the trailer, the bow tip will want to dip under the roller. I powerload and had to learn this the hard way, after 20 frustrating minutes on the ramp. Luckily all the bow weight empties a lot faster than the rears, so it works out well for me.
thirdly, since the weight is all the way to the tip of the bow, there is a lot of leverage, more so than when the same amount of weight is under the bow storage, so watch the trailer jack and inspect the wheel, it is slightly more difficult to jack up the bow.