Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

There is a pic of my block sensor removed above, the bolt was removed and it took a while, but water did drain out. The brass adapter I left in, just removed the bolt. Do not over tighten (see previous threads, gets ~15lbs torque, just enough not to come loose).

Can anyone answer this question for me. My 2010 A22 that I just bought has a water hose hook up on what appears to be the water hose to the transmission. The previous owner used it to hook a water hose to in order to be able to run the boat on the trailer. He never winterized it due to living in S. Texas. Is the any reason that I could not let the boat run long enough to open the thermostat then hook up a tank with anti-freeze and run the boat till pure anti-freeze comes out. Seems logical but too simple. What am I missing?

That's what I did. I ordered mine with the transom flush kit. Hooked up the water hose and let the boat get up to temp, turned on the heater and let it run for 5 min, disconnected the water and hooked up a pump with pure antifreeze (environment safe -sierra brand) and let it run until I got antifreeze out the exhaust. Opened all the plugs that Walter so graciously posted pics of, antifreeze came out of everything. Calling it good.

Thank you so much. I don't know what you call that hook up but was the transom flush kit and extra that you could order? So I guess that's what I've got. My boat does not have the heater so would that change anything? Why do you need to open the plugs? Does it hurt to leave it full with anti-freeze? Did you find a source for the tank and hose to fill with antifreeze? Does it need to have a pump or will it gravity feed with the engine sucking it through? ( sorry for so many questions)

Well...I am no expert and this is my first winterization on my first Axis. I ordered mine with the flush kit on the transom specifically for doing the winterization. I did have trouble though, I first tried to gravity feed it in through a 5gallon bucket. There is a check valve in the transom and that wouldn't let the coolant flow in, it needs to be under pressure. I actually only pulled the plugs that Walter posted pics of, to verify that coolant was everywhere it needed to be.

Thank you very much. I found a comment on Amazon last night that says that we should not trust this method. Complete draining is the safe way. I wanted you to see this since temps are dropping starting tonight. http://www.amazon.com/Camco-65501-Yours ... zation+kit

Makes sense that at low speed we may not get enough undiluted antifreeze to all the right spots.

Thanks Iron Mike. I am still pretty convinced that I am good. But just to be sure I may hook the pump up again and just recycle the coolant coming out the exhaust back through the transom flush kit connection until I get the temp up to about 170-180. I am adding straight coolant in and it mixes with the water still in the system. I will pull a sample and check it with a coolant tester when I am done.

I used to winterize my i/o with the coolant and never had a problem. The axis is just soooo easy to drain the block completely it makes no sense not to do it.

I am curious. Instead of pulling the plugs, can I just run the engine to operating temp and then hook the antifreeze up to it, suck about 4 gallons through it then drain the heater and ballast.

Hey Dezul...check that Amazon link ironMike posted. Read the first review and you will get what we are talking about. Basically the reviewer is saying that coolant doesn't flow everywhere through the block due to the engine not being under load. I think that is long as the thermostat is open, the coolant should be going where it needs to go.