Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

This is just a quick write up on the winterization process on non cat freshwater engines in the Axis A-22 and A-20, saltwater engines will differ due to the closed circuit cooling system and catalyst engines exhaust drains will differ slightly. There will be a description with the photo and the process that I use to winterize my A22.

Always remember prior to winterizing and draining all excess water from your boat to run the engine with a fresh water supply and change all of the fluids so it is stored with clean oil in everything, this includes the engine oil, transmission and v-drive unit. Most places that sell boats and equipment also sell the vacuum tank that makes changing the fluids much easier. Just hook it up and pump the handle a few times and wait until its empty, pretty easy to do yourself.

This will not cover removing the prop because most people never do that and does not cover checking the prop shaft clearance to the v-drive flange, it likely never gets looked at by the dealer anyway during winterization, unless there is a vibration issue most people leave that grey area alone. but if you want to get nitty gritty the engine owners manual has the clearance spec for it, just go to sears and get a feeler gauge and its simple to check.

Also remember to add sta-bil to the fuel tank and alcohol treatment if your fuel contains ethanol, you dont have to fill the tank up because of the new materials they are made of today just be sure to treat it
back in the day the old steel tanks were bad about rusting due to moisture collecting in the tank if it wasn't full but that's a thing of the past with the new tank designs.

these are the most important plugs to remove by far, if you dont drain the engine block and have a freeze you can usually count on needing a new engine block, and they don't come cheap, The water in there will freeze and crack your cylinder liners, do not skip any steps, do them in any order but just make sure to do them. Be sure to remove the plug on both sides of the engine, one does not drain both sides, the water jackets will hold nearly a gallon individually per side

save for more pictures

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If your boat came equipped with a heater you can notice the 5/8 hose just to the right of the oil filler cap, take this hose off and blow through it with your mouth.....do this before you put the lower engine plugs back in because you can generally get another gallon or so out of the heater hoses and core, you can also take this time to get a funnel and pour some antifreeze in the heater hose if you are worried about freezing. That is pretty much it

This is a good link to follow also
http://www.inboardonline.com/library/Ho ... 923495.pdf

A few people have asked what is the best way to winterize the ballast and in my opinion just make sure they are drained is all you really need to do, jack the trailer up as high as it will go and turn on the drain pumps, as long as the tanks are empty you don't have anything to worry about, if it will make you feel better you can get a curved funnel and just pour some antifreeze down the drain outlet right at the side of the boat, it will get to where it needs to be without disconnecting anything, just make sure it's the enviro safe stuff so you don't kill something.

this is the oil change pump that I have

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PEL-PL ... acity.html

this one shows to list for 99$ but I found mine local for probably half that
they are really clean and easy to use, you will need a container to put the used oil in to dispose of, sone places will take it at no charge, I do, we have shop heaters that use waste oil instead of gas, very efficient heat source