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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 5:10 am 
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Team Axis
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Location: Knoxville
Dylan wrote:
For you all that are running the 750+ rear bags... do you all have the 335 and how hard do you think it is on the motor... or do you have the big motor?


I think there are several people running the 335 with 750lb+ in the rear. From what I read, most people are running either ACME 2079 or ACME 2315 props to compensate for the smaller engine size. I plan on picking up one of these props or a similar one from OJ Props.


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 9:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:46 pm
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Location: NW Arkansas
A lot of the members I have seen on here have the standard engine and are running the 750s, myself included. The right prop is the key. I run the OJ cinco and it's a great prop for the weight I throw in it. There are more aggressive props out there from ACME that have already been mentioned. The only thing I have to do is add some bow weight when I have a lot of weight in the rear bags, but you would want to do that anyway. I have found that more weight up front gives the wake a firmer lip. Most boats require more bow weight than what's available from the factory anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 10:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:21 pm
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Location: Vancouver
I've been running the Sumo 900s and an old FlyHigh 950 in the front with a 335 and 2315. I've had issues with the fittings coming off as well. I had upgraded from 550s and found that I needed about an extra 150 lbs up front to get on plane.

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 Post subject: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 11:01 am 
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Location: NW Arkansas
Ya, it's not really an issue of will it be enough motor to get the job done. It certainly is. Just gets you thinking about the right prop and how long it takes to plane out


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:39 pm 
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What is a pair of fly high 750s worth? Thinking of upgrading to 1100s.


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 8:32 pm 
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I am using 900# sumo sacs in the rear lockers and 950# sumo arrow bag in the nose of my 2013 A22. Very happy with the bags but, I have had one fitting pop out on the front bag and one rear bag a few times. I used plumbers tape and it is a lot better. The only time I've had issues is when the bag is filled to the max. The sumo sacs were quite a bit less in cost if I remember correctly.


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 8:58 pm 
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Location: Dale Hollow Lake, TN
Spoke with wakemakers today and they stated the Sumo's would be totally redone for 2014... apparently they are addressing these issues. Should become available in January.

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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2013 1:17 pm
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Location: Cincinnati
Anyone know if straight line will make a sumo that fits the front of the A24 by Feb/March?


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 4:57 am 
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Location: Knoxville
Dylan wrote:
Spoke with wakemakers today and they stated the Sumo's would be totally redone for 2014... apparently they are addressing these issues. Should become available in January.


I may hold off with any purchases until I see what they come up with.


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 Post subject: Re: Ballast bags. Which ones?
PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:40 pm
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I run the fly high 1100s in mine along with the front arrow sac and couldn't be happier. You also don't have to use the quick connect fittings if you want u can directly connect the hose to the sack and hose clamp it on. I did that on some of the fittings where the quick connects weren't warranted and have the quicks in other areas and have had no problems with either. I have an A22 so it maybe different in the A24 if it's a bigger locker but I'd say the 1100s get to about roughly 900lbs give or take. With the A24 they may be able to get all the way full but I do know your getting more weight then the 750s and the price isn't much different. As far as the motor compartment goes that's a simple fix and took me about ten Minutes to fix that issue. Simply take out the remove able plastic wall between locker and motor and I used a couple of steal shelf rack dividers and cut them down a bit and drilled three holes for each support running up and down and bolt them on. Still a remove able piece but the braces just basically keep the plastic from bowing in towards your motor. I think there is a write up on it somewhere on here if not let me know and I can take some pictures for you.


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