Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

I'm getting ready install my Sumo 600v sacs to my rear locker PnP, and at the advise of some of the guys here I took a look at what it would take to upgrade the existing 3/4" to 1".

I traced the lines all the way back to the fill pump and found this to be the easiest way without having to change out pumps ( they have 3/4" hose barb discharge).


I did find a few spot that made me wonder if it was worth it, hopefully you guys can chime in with some insight;

The 1" Vented Loop Anti-Siphon Valve are $47 each so would it make more sense to change the 3/4" to 1" after the loops? Or do you think it's worth the extra $100 for the loops and make the switch right after the pump to give the system more time to get the water flow volume up before it hits the bags.


If the "barb x thread elbow" where the bag drain line connects to the hard tanks is only 3/4", then that means no matter what the hose size, the flow will always be restricted 3/4" upon entering the tank.

The 1"x3/4" hose reducers are hose barb fittings; meaning they reduce the ID of the hose even more than 3/4" at the fitting, so would doing any of this even help? The only way around reducers is change all the pumps and thru-hull fittings to ones with 1" barbs and that's a lot more work and cost





This was my fist time messing with the system, I seems pretty straight forward but please let me know if missed anything or have any of the plumping incorrect.

I plan on doing the same thing to the front PnP when I get my mitts on the 900lbs sumo bow sac.

Here's the list of parts needed to do both sides; It came out to about $160

I will call my buddy today to get an update on that Sumo bow sack, i looked on wakemakers and they do not show it for sale yet. Original date was March but then last I heard it would be early april. Definately worth the wait, but I hear you about wanting to get it done.

As for your system. I am contemplating upgrading to 1" hoses and fitting too (as soon as I switch all my bags to Sumo).

First of all, really nice drawing.
Second, I agree with you staying at 3/4" for the vent, but for the drain, I would look into getting the hard tank elbows as 1" ID, then changing the hose, but I would leave the through hull as is. I think this would help with draining speed... maybe not.
Third, your anti siphon valve for $45 is crazy expensive, is that for 1? or both? For $14.99 you can get one way valves, so $30 for both sides. It will work great and you will not need as much hose as you can go straight to the top of your sac and not have to route it up and down for the siphon valve. I would definitely add the 3/4-1" increaser at each fill pump, then run 1" hose to the sack with an inline one-way valve.
Finally, not sure how hard it would be, but if you can switch out the 3/4" elbows on the hard tank to 1" elbows, then your drain and fill times would be faster. Definately look into the gravity fed 3/4" elbow on the hard tank, if you only do one, so that your drain times will be better.

Looks good, please keep us updated with pics. I will call my buddy today, may ride with him this week as well, so I will get back asap.

jealous of drawings

From day one my friend and I both removed our vented loops completely out of the PnP plumbing in both our boats. Never had an issue but then again we are filling tank first. However, in your system you are still using the stock pump with a 3/4" hose part way. I just don't see how there would be any noticeable decrease in fill time. Either use all 1" from intake thru-hull, pumps, hose, and fittings or just stay 3/4" is how I see it for my boat.

Fill time is all about resistance to the flow if water. Resistance increases with smaller diameter hose, but it also increases with longer hose. Since he is upping the diameter for most of the run, it will overall be lower resistance. My fluid dynamics is too rusty to figure out how much though

I would love to hear how this works out as it could be a cheap/easy upgrade.

I figured some reduction from the hose diameter...curious to see how much without going with a pump with a 1" intake/outlet and 1" all the way.

you are looking at friction loss in the hose.

1000 GPHour pump through 3/4" hose is approx 32 psi per 100 feet of hose.
1000 GPHour pump through 1" hose is approx 6 psi per 100 feet of hose.

Guessing that most hose used in our boats are less than 10 feet and more than 2 feet, I will use 5' for the average hose length.

5 feet of 3/4" hose = 1.6 psi that the pump has to overcome,
5 feet of 1" hose = 0.3 psi that the pump has to overcome, plus elevation/height of 1/2 psi per foot.

So if filling rear ballast from the top of the sack first, you have to pump 1 foot of height when the bag is flat/empty, up to 3 feet of height when the bag is almost full.

3/4" hose = 2.1 - 3.1 psi that the pump has to overcome
1" hose = 0.8 - 1.8 psi that the pump has to overcome

fittings/appliances always add friction loss, unless the fitting increases in size. Reducers (like 1" hose going into a 3/4" fitting) and like sizes (like 3/4" hose going through a 3/4" connector) all add friction loss equally when using field hydraulics with higher pressures and volumes than we are using for our ballast.

In short, I think the 1" hose will be beneficial, not sure if it will be measurable though.

Anyone know the make and model of our Axis pumps for pre-2013 boats? I'd check but my boat is stored by the lake.

Hey guys, I called Wakemakers the yesterday and explained what I was think about doing. After answering all my question and go over a couple of different ideas, it sounds like the benefit of upping the hose size isn't really worth the cost and effort unless you upgrade your pumps as well. The only part my system I'm going to change is the size of the hose going from the bag drain to the hard tank. I was able to get the elbow off the tank and it's 3/4" thread, so I going to just swap them out with (1" barb x3/4" threaded)elbows and use 1" hose and Flow Rite 1" Straight Quick Release Connector fittings, everywhere else I'm sticking with 3/4".

Thanks for the compliments on the doodle, I have to draw things out because thats just how my brain works.